'Z Zegna Spring Summer 2013 Fashion Show by Paul Surridge'

10:59 Mar 1 5 4

'Summer for the Z Zegna man is a time to leave aside the rigidity of working life and let a playful, carefree and at times nostalgic spirit emerge. The collection inspires positivity and optimism, joy and lightness. Essentiality, conformity and discipline are things of the past, now is the moment for leisure time; an approach to life that is conscious, serene and liberated.   The silhouette turns away from power dressing and close-fitting lines. It becomes boxy,  even slightly oversized, with a new, unstructured shoulder in tailoring reminiscent of shirt construction. The collection celebrates a freedom of action, a lightness of thought, and the creative vision of the world that surrounds us: \"Dress to be comfortable, as a state of mind.\"  The jackets are inspired by the classic khaki uniform. Loose fitting and unlined but retaining a sartorial impact. High button closures graphically emphasise the face outlined with knitted silk scarfs. Short sleeves modernise the silhouette softened by box pleat details on the back. The high-wasted trousers and chinos some with French seam workmanship are paired with button-down shirts. Oversized multi pocket parkas in fluid lightweight wool or in robust cotton are employed as easy, layering pieces.  Solarised brights that are never aggressive give an identity to the palette, these tones have a sense of having been lived in with their intensity almost atomised through the passage of time. The works of artist Dan Flavin have inspired hues such as tangerine, lemon, sea green, avocado and coral that energise bases of solid blue, khaki and taupe. The blurred and prismatic colour gradient is underlined by a decisive choice of fabrics such as Solaro in cotton and wool, a reference to Lanificio Zegna collections of 60s, and optical pattern play obtained with micro jacquards for of jackets, pants, and shirts.  Essential accessories in the name of convenience. The shoes develop a hybrid spirit combining classic leather forms with the soles of a sneaker. The style is defined by the introduction of elastic bands, just as it is within the perforated leather bags.  The impact is graphic and multilayered, for a total look that leaves no room for uncertainty.' 

Tags: fashion , summer , style , catwalk , runway , week , Show , spring , man , menswear , men , Milan , 2013 , Paul , zegna , ss13 , zzegna , surridge

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